In all the various pilgrim surveys and polls, one albergue consistently ranks as the best albergue on the Camino. What makes it special? Well, it is definitely not the soft mattresses on nice comfortable beds, there are few large rooms with gym mats on the floor. It is not due to availability of showers, there is only one for men and one for women. So what is it then?
Let’s start with a welcome infused by such a strong sense of warmth and hospitality. a living room with space for a chat or a song, the piano and guitar are there and often find a pair of capable hands to make music, there is also frequently someone with a decent singing voice. A communal dinner where everybody participates. Even if they’re not a chef, cutting tomatoes for a salad is a task suitable for almost everyone. A pilgrim blessing before dinner is done in Spanish in a rap style, occasionally words can be drowned by the pilgrims beating a background rhythm.
But the finale to the stay at Granon is the candle ceremony in the evening. It starts when pilgrims gather at the church choir (the albergue is part of the church). then the lights are dimmed. After a short prayer and reflection, a large candle start circulating among the pilgrims gathered. Each person shares what is foremost in their hearts and minds at that particular moment. What they are grateful for, what have they learned on the Camino so far, why are they doing the Camino … an outpouring of authentic emotions and sharing of intimate thoughts with a group of total strangers … or at least that’s what they were just a few hours before. After experiencing Granon hospitality they are all more like brothers and sisters. The ceremony ends with a Granon version of the Camino stamp. You can’t put this one in your pilgrim passport, it’s a hug where two hearts are stamped with one another.
Extremely humble in the material sense and extremely powerful experience in a spiritual sense.